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The word birria means something deformed or grotesque, and it is used
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col- loquially in the northwest to mean a mess or failure. This
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certainly looks a mess when it is cooked, but it is a very savory one.
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It is a really rustic dish. Usually a whole goat or lamb, although
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in some places just the offal, is seasoned with a paste of ground
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spices and chilies and cooked in a pit barbecue.
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One day ahead: There will be approximately 6 to 7 pounds of meat.
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Slash the meats in several places down to the bone and rub the salt
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well into it. Meanwhile, prepare the chili paste. Heat the comal (or
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griddle) and toast the chilies lightly, turning them from time to
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time so that they will not burn. Remove the veins and seeds. Put the
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chilies to soak in hot water for abt. 20 minutes, then transfer with
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a slotted spoon to the blender jar, add the rest of the ingredients,
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and blend to a smooth sauce. Cover the meat thickly with the paste
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and set it aside to season for about 18 hours.
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On serving day: Preheat the oven to 350F. Put the water in the bottom
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of a large Dutch over or casserole with a tightly fitting lid and
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place the meat on a rack so the it is just about the water. Seal the
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lid with a paste of flour and water and cook for about 3 1/2 to 4
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hours, by which time the meat should be almot falling off the bones.
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Strain off the juices from the bottom of the pan, cool, and skim off
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the fat. There should be about 2 cups of juices left-if not, make it
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up with up to 2 cups of water. Blend the tomatoes to a smooth sauce.
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Put the sauce and the skimmed juices from the meat into a saucepan
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and bring to a boil.
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Serve each portion of mixed meats in a deep bowl. pour 1/2 cup of
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sauce over the meat and sprinkle with the chopped onion and oregano.
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Eat with tortillas. Makes 8 to 10 servings.
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From the Cuisines of Mexico by Diana Kennedy
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