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* backbone, legs, shoulders, ribs, and head
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To further explore the international links of various cuisines, check
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out this one and remember a few months back when we were talking abou
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the Pacific Island custom of cooking in pits. I didn't realize that
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the Mexicans also had such a practice. Here's a series of recipes
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revolving around Mexican Barbacoa or BBQ.
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To be very authentic, use a lamb which has been slaughtered the day
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before the cookout and hung overnight. On the day of the big event,
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the animal is split into sections: backbone, legs, shoulders, ribs,
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and head.
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METHOD:
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We assume that no one would tackle this kind of barbecue without a
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large number of guests-the kind who really like to pitch in. So, the
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first thing to do is to set one group of your guests to digging a
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hole about four feet by two feet across. Other members of the party
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can scout up kindling and others can be set to work cleaning each
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maguey leaf.
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Once the hole is dug, it is plastered with mud to keep the walls firm.
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Large porous stones should then be placed in the bottom of the pit
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(beware of little hard rocks; they'll split open). Over the stones
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put enough dry wood to fill the pit, then set fire to the wood and
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let it burn to the smokeless coal stage. While the fire is burning
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down, the maguey leaves should be toasted until limp, for this will
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enable them to release precious juices needed to season the meat.
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When the fire has burned down sufficiently, line the pit with the
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maguey leaves, making sure that all of the mud is covered so meat
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will not stick to pit. The leaves should be suspended vertically,
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the tips overlapping all the way around and held down with stones for
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the moment.
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The next step is to lower a grate into the hole and on it place the
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casserole with soup ingredients. On top of the uncovered casserole
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ingredients, arrange the lamb pieces, starting with the backbone,
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then the legs, shoulders, rib sections, and the head. Do not salt
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meat before it is cooked, for this can toughen it.
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After meat is in the pit, fold the tips of the maguey leaves into the
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hole to cover the meat well. Over this place a metal sheet to keep
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any earth from seeping into the pit and then seal the pit with a coat
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of fresh mud and build a large fire over the metal sheet and mud
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cover.
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Keep the fire blazing for 5 or 6 hours, depending upon the age of the
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meat. Open the pit, salt the meat before serving it, and accompany it
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with Salsa Borracha*. The broth is served in small cups.
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* See Shepherd's Roast with Drunken Sauce for recipe.
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From "The Art of Mexican Cooking" by Jan Aaron and Sachs Salom.
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Doubleday and Company, N.Y., 1965.
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Posted by Stephen Ceideberg; March 9 1993.
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